200-YEAR-OLD N.J. HOTEL’S RESTAURANT TRANSFORMED BY NEW OWNER, FINDS DELICIOUS NEW LIFE | REVIEW
The road leading into Frenchtown is straight out of “Gone with the Wind,” winding and twisting with massive trees on both sides, branches swaying in the breeze, their shadows dancing on the pavement.
Scenic Route 12 reminds me of my years in the South, where the trees form an inverted V and make you feel like you’re driving through the hills of Georgia, ready to spot Scarlet O’Hara around the corner. As I arrived in Frenchtown, I didn’t see any literary characters, but I was overwhelmed by the small town’s bucolic beauty and opulent green pastures along the banks of the Delaware River. Quaint shops dot the road with that old-timey feel, as do charming homes with classic picket fences.
I parked at the National Hotel, originally built in 1833 as a stagecoach. Tourists came from surrounding towns to enjoy good food, comfortable stays and a stunning natural vibe. In the 1870s, the area became an important supply route between New Jersey and Pennsylvania.
Two years ago, the nearly 200-year-old hotel gained a new owner in Cara Lin, originally from China. She bought the hotel in 2022, and she shared with me the dichotomy of her life’s passion.
“Running this hotel is by far the hardest thing I’ve ever done,” Lin said. “But I absolutely love it. The key is that you must love people. You must pay attention to detail, and the staff must be the best.”
Simple, right?
Lin and her family also own Bamboo House, a restaurant in Frenchtown that has served up Japanese and Thai cuisine for 20 years.
“We have survived a recession and a pandemic,” Lin said. “I guess people must love our food. We do the best we can, both at Bamboo House and here at the National Hotel.”
Continuing the food excellence at the National Hotel restaurant and bar, Lin offers her patrons Asian-inspired dishes with a ton of flavor and ample flair. The aesthetic is elegant and welcoming, as many of the patrons seemed to know each other.
“I absolutely love our little town. The people are so kind, and they have really taken us in,” Lin said.
Summer is a brilliant time to visit this part of New Jersey, worlds away from the traffic and crowds of the Jersey Shore — a place to revel in peace and serenity. But how about some tasty food? Let’s dig in.
The good
I started with the veggie dumplings, $12 for six, which melted in my mouth with a flavorful and rich stuffing. I could have eaten more than the six I got!
Next was the money bag appetizer: veggies wrapped with thin dough that is shaped like a money bag then fried. It came complete with an edible rope made from herbs and tied around the top. They were light and well-seasoned.
For the entre, I had the pan seared salmon with sauteed vegetables, $25, tender and flaky, and the veggies were tasty with a good crunch.
I also tried the seafood ramen, a huge bowl with a tasty broth and a fish cake, calamari, bamboo shoots, wood ear mushrooms and corn. The seafood was prepared well with complex flavors, and those wood ear mushrooms were sinfully delicious as they sopped up the richly seasoned broth.
Along with the food, I had a white wine and a cocktail, the lifeboat, $16, a tantalizing mix of gin, cucumber vodka, ginger liquor, lime, rosemary and honey syrup. The cocktail was aromatic with a lingering taste.
The bad
The crust on the money bag appetizer was a little on the dry side. It was cute idea to have the food wrapped with dough that is fried then tied around the top like a money bag, but it came a bit short. The dish was served with a tangy sauce that helped a little.
The vibe
The feel of the National Hotel restaurant and bar is that of old-world charm along with contemporary comfort, a combination hard to achieve. Lin retained the character of the hotel and restaurant, then she added modern conveniences.
The décor is upscale with the dark wood, fancy lighting, shiny bar and leather chairs; but at the same time gives you cozy feel fit for the picturesque town itself. It’s neutral and does not give away the Asian inspired menu.
Patrons at the restaurant and bar seemed friendlier than what I’ve experienced in larger cities like Newark, Jersey City or Trenton. After all, they probably knew each other!
The bottom line
The National Hotel’s new restaurant is a fine choice for either a delectable meal amid your weekend stay, or a one-off visit to Hunterdon County.
The Asian-inspired cuisine is flavorful with nuances of that homemade goodness, and the handcrafted drinks are complex and tasty. If you’re looking to take a road less traveled this summer instead of the familiar stays of Cape May or Ocean Grove — while not sacrificing any of the charm — this is a smart move this summer.
As you leave the National Hotel and speed down that windy road with the trees making that inverted V, their branches swaying, their shadows dancing on the pavement, you may just hear the music from “Gone with the Wind.”
Just be on the lookout for any Civil War soldiers marching down!
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Karim Shamsi-Basha may be reached at [email protected]. Follow him on Twitter & Instagram. Find NJ.com on Facebook.
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